Home-made seafood dishes deserve an equally tasty wine.

The Devil’s Advocate (named for those who dismiss Chardonnay) is not a oaky butter bomb, but rather lithe and studded with tropical fruit.

This will be especially great with Edible Rhody Magazine’s rustic seafood dish, Haddock and Clams with White Wine, Potatoes and Escarole.

This Chardonnay has sherry like notes that will go really well with the haddock (or cod) and the clams.

A great cold weather wine with a cold weather seafood dinner!

HADDOCK AND CLAMS WITH WHITE WINE, POTATOES AND ESCAROLE

by Steve Johnson, The Red Dory, Tiverton

INGREDIENTS

½ pound salt cod, cut into small pieces
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
1 medium leek, cut into thin rounds and rinsed well
2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into half-rounds
1 small head escarole, stem removed, chopped and rinsed well
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup olive oil, plus more for serving
1 cup white wine
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
4 cups water
1 (15-ounce) can white beans, drained
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Pinch red pepper flakes
1 lemon
8 (3- to 4-ounce) fresh boneless, skinless thick haddock or cod filets
1 tablespoon canola oil
32–40 littleneck clams, scrubbed
Minced parsley or chives for garnish
Focaccia bread

DIRECTIONS

Soak the salt cod in cold water in a large bowl for 4 hours, changing the water 3 times, and then drain, discarding the water.

Place the salt cod, onion, leeks, potatoes, escarole, garlic, olive oil, wine, thyme and water in a large stockpot, bring to a boil, reduce heat and let it simmer gently for about 1 hour. The russet potatoes should just start to thicken the stew. Add the beans and season to taste. (Can be made a day in advance, refrigerated overnight.)

When ready to serve, heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 4 fish fillets at a time (without crowding, so they brown properly) and sear until golden on 1 side, then remove to a plate next to stove. Repeat for next 4 filets. Return fish to skillet, seared side up, add clams, cover and heat until clams are open.

Meanwhile, double-check the broth for seasoning, adding a sprinkle of salt or a squeeze of lemon juice if necessary (and you might want to add some of the liquid from the sauté pan to the soup pot).

To serve, ladle broth in 8 warm shallow bowls and place a cod filet and 4–5 clams in each with a sprinkle of parsley or chives, a drizzle of olive oil and a wedge of lemon. (You can also offer this buffet style and let guests serve themselves.) Serve with thick slices of toasted focaccia to soak up the broth. Serves 8.